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Step 1
Assembling Your Tools
This process only requires 3 tools. From bottom to top, we have a needle file, a 7/64 drill bit and a Dremel
cutter tool. The drill bit and the cutter tool have been wrapped with a blue rubber band to aid in the hand twisting that's
ahead. They are not necessary, but I recommend them.
Any needle file would work fine; my favorite has a flat side
and a convex side. The drill bit must be 7/64 based on the size of the magnets we are using. The Dremel cutter is part #194;
it's a 1/8 cutting bit and can be found here.
Step 2
Choosing Your Victim
To begin this project, I would have your Space Marine assembled as shown. It's possible to simply work with
a torso, but I prefer the model based with legs so I can better control it in my hands. This particular model is being recycled
from a friend's previous project (Ezra, I found your old heavy bolter marine.) It has been stripped of paint and is ready
for a new life. If you'd like to see my tutorial on stripping paint, click here.
Step 3
Starting The Pilot Hole
With the tip of your file, mark the center of your hole by pressing firmly with the tip of the file. Make
sure not to press so firmly as to break your file or to drive it deep into your hand. Your looking for enough pressue to make
a dimple. Then using the file, twist back and forth with a drilling motion to create a small pilot hole in the torso.
Step 4
Drill The Hole
Using your pilot hole as guide, grab the 7/64 drill bit and start on the larger hole. The twisting of a
bare drill bit is made much easier with the rubber band on the end. The depth you're shooting for here is about 1/16 of an
inch or less than 2 millimeter. It's okay to eyeball this depth, as I don't expect people to rush out and purchase the
tools required to get exact with this stuff. The trick is to take your time, apply little pressure and let the drill
do the work. I find myself barely entering the empty torso cavity with the tip of the bit. Remember, if you totally screw
this up, pack the hole with green stuff and glue on the arm.
Step 5
Final Hole Prep
The drill bit is a very effective tool for creating the hole, but unsuited to completing the hole due to
its convex tip. This is where the Dremel cutter bit comes to the rescue. The #194 cutter just happened to be included in a
Dremel tool kit I purchased many years ago and it just happened to be the perfect tool for this job. It too is outfitted
with a rubber band handle to aid in twisting. The trick to using this tool is to understand what it can and cannot do. With
its aggressive teeth pattern, it struggles a bit with getting started in the hole. However, since it has many teeth, it can
be used in reverse to smooth the entrance of the hole to better accommodate using this tool in the correct direction. Just
like the drill bit, take it slow and let the tool do the work until you have the desired depth.
Step 6
Prepping The Magnet
Thanks to the fine people at www.amazingmagnets.com, I have ordered their disc magnet D040A. It's their smallest magnet at 0.125" diameter and 0.040" thick. It
just so happens that 0.125" is equal to 1/8 inch, which is perfect for our tools. The cost is extremely reasonable at $6.80
for a pack of 85. That's enough magnets to convert two full tactical squad boxes.
Step 7
Fitting The Magnet
You will notice that I didn't list glue on the equipment list of this project. Although you may need it
for some of the installations, I found that I could friction fit most of the installations. Not having to use Super Glue on
most of these applications made life very easy since I tend to match the level of glue on the models to the amount on my hands.
Step 8
A Point About Polarity
As you continue to drill and prep holes in the arms and torsos of the various Marine parts, you must be
mindful of the polarity of the magnets when they are being applied. The easiest way to overcome this challenge is to follow
this simple order. First mount a single magnet in the torso, not worrying about the magnet polarity. Once the magnet is seated
in torso, place another magnet on top of it. By placing another magnet on the one mounted in the torso, you are assured to
have to correct polarity for the arm. Drill the hole on the arm and press it over the extra magnet on the torso. The friction
should be great enough to keep the magnet mounted in the arm but allow it to be firmly attracted to the torso. Drill the second
hole in the torso and use the completed arm with additional magnet to press fit the new torso hole. Use the new magnet in
the torso as the guide for the last arm. This method will allow all arms and torsos to mirror the same polarity and make the
arms swappable with any torso.
Step 9
Putting It All Together
Now that we have 4 magnets properly mounted in our subject, we can see the fruit of our labor. Minor adjustment
may be needed to align the bolter and the supporting arm; but for anyone who has assembled Marines in the past, this should
be easy. What few gaps you may have should be covered by the shoulder pads that are mounted on the arms.
Step 10
What Can You Do Now
So, I have increased both the time and money required to assemble a Tactical Marine. Some might see this
as a problem, but I see this as a great opportunity for me and my bits box. There are several advantages to this conversion.
- Standard bolters can be exchanged for meltas, flamers and close combat weapons without having to assemble
replacement Marines. This could give your Tactical squads ultimate flexabilty.
- With detachable arms, you now have free and easy access to areas during the painting process that were
previously difficult to reach.
- Squad and chapter markings can be swapped out easily with the exchange of arms. Your Iron Hands, Black Templar
or even Deathwach Marines could all use the same torsos.
Conclusion
So I hope you enjoyed my How To article. I realize that this idea isn't new or even mine, but I hope I can
encourage you to try it. Instead of converting a whole squad, you could start this process on a Commanders
or Veteran Sergeants. I know as cool as I like the look of that Power Fist, sometimes I just don't want to pay for it.
I hope to try this process with metal arm as well, but I fear it won't be as easy and Super Glue will simply
no longer be an option.
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